Marc Jacobs Fall 2009*

I have been looking at Marc Jacobs, and have been excited to see this 80's inspired collection. I absolutely love the range of colours hes used in this collection. I have been inspired to make more quirky designs after looking through this..

Creating my Toile for 80's project *

 First of all I started with a basic pattern block for narrow tapered leg trousers. After tracing this, I then dropped the crotch by a few cm. Next, I made the trousers higher by adding 5 cm , this is because my design is high waisted.

 Here, In the original pattern block there are darts in the front and back,  so I have took them out of the front and put in 2 pleats on either side. the pleats are 5cm apart. I then added and extra 10 cm onto the side of the pattern and narrowed it in, this is because the pleats are 5 cm. I also made the leg alot more skinnier and I took 10cm of the trousers so they are alot shorter.

 I then cut out calico.

 Here, I put the darts in the back.

I measured 5cm down from the top of the fabric on each pleat, and each pleat is 5cm. I then began to sew the pleat . I done the pleat this way as my trousers are paper bag, so I would like them to open.

Creating My Dress*

Firstly I began to cut out my fabric.

 I then began to construct my garment together.

 This is the corset without the chiffon piece on top. Whilst sewing I had some problems with the bust as it kept going pointy so I had to re- do it a few times.

 I next constructed the chiffon piece together, and I then attatched it on top of the corset, This is without the facing.

Here is the garment from the back. Ive been having problems with the chiffon as its very static and it keeps going flat and stickting to the corset. I can solve this problem by buying some static spray.

Creating The Chiffon Piece*

Here I started creating my pattern piece for my chiffon part that goes on top of my corset dress. I created it by getting the 2 panels for the front of my corset and pinning it together at the top, I opened it slightly and then traced the shape. And I done the same for the back piece.

 Here, I made it into two seperate layers. After I done this I then slashed it and made it bigger so that when I make it, it will be alot more fuller.

Here is what the chiffon looks like after slashing it. This was very easy to construct as you only have to sew them together then onto the corset. This is before the facing is attached. I think it looks alot better after doing this technique. This is the final top half.

Creating My Toile & Pattern Piece

Here I started creating my pattern piece for my dress. I started off using a basic corset bloc, but after making the toile it wasnt how I wanted it so I then removed all darts and made it into 4 seperate panels. I then made the bust more fuller by adding a curve in the side panel. I then made the curve on the corset higher up and more curvier.

 This is were I removed the darts and changed it into 4 seperate panels.

 Here, the toile was a bit to big around the bust and the waist so I pinned it to see were I needed to take it in on my toile.

This is the result after I went back to my pattern piece and took it in around the bust. I also made it alot more higher and curvier. In my own opinion I think that the first toile I made looks better around the bust, but this toile fits alot better.

Experimentation*

Here I took some images of my experimentation of how I want my Tie dye to look like,im not certain on the exact colours but the samples below are perfect. I used calico to create these samples. I have also created a sample of a flower print I might used in my designs, I created the flower the same way as I created my tie dye samples.

                             

Illustration Development*

Here are some illustrations I have created by researching into my theme "hippies".

These are my ideas and designs for my dress starting from to the four final designs in both

illustrations and flats. The colours below are similar to ones i want to include in my final design.